What Is Screen Printing? A Breakdown of Handmade Graphic Tees

Screen printing is a versatile and time-tested method that has become a staple in the creation of high-quality graphic tees and hoodies. From bold designs to intricate artwork, this printing technique offers endless possibilities for customization and creativity. 

Whether you’re a fashion enthusiast or someone curious about the process behind your favorite t-shirts, understanding screen printing provides insight into the craftsmanship involved. 

This article will take you through the history of screen printing, explain the process, and highlight the key techniques and materials that make it such an enduring and popular choice in the fashion industry.

What Is the History of Screen Printing?

The roots of screen printing can be traced back to ancient China, where it first emerged as a primitive but effective method for transferring designs onto fabric. The technique later spread to Japan, where it was refined and became an integral part of traditional art forms, particularly in the 18th century. 

Japanese artisans perfected the use of silk mesh screens — a practice that laid the foundation for what we now know as silkscreen printing or serigraphy. This early adoption in Asia set the stage for the technique's global spread and evolution.

By the early 20th century, screen printing had made its way to Europe, where it began to gain prominence in the commercial printing industry. The method's ability to produce vibrant, durable designs on various substrates, including fabric, paper, and glass, made it a valuable tool for both artistic and industrial applications. 

In the 1960s, screen printing gained widespread recognition in the art world, thanks to artists like Andy Warhol, who used the technique to create iconic pieces that blurred the lines between commercial and fine art. Today, screen printing is a versatile, cost-effective method that remains widely used in the fashion industry and beyond.

How Does the Screen Printing Process Work?

At its core, screen printing is a process that involves creating a stencil (often referred to as a screen) and using it to apply layers of ink onto a substrate, such as a t-shirt or hoodie. The screen is typically made of a mesh material stretched over a frame, with the stencil defining the design areas where the ink will be applied. 

A squeegee is then used to press ink through the open areas of the screen, transferring the design onto the fabric. The versatility of this technique allows for a wide range of designs, from simple logos to complex, multi-colored artwork.

Creating the Stencil

The process begins with designing the stencil, which involves coating a mesh screen with a photosensitive emulsion. The design is then printed onto an acetate sheet and placed on the screen. 

When exposed to bright light, the emulsion hardens in the areas not covered by the design, leaving open areas that will allow ink to pass through. This step is crucial, as the accuracy of the stencil directly impacts the quality of the printed image.

Setting Up the Screen

Once the stencil is prepared, it’s time to set up the screen for printing. The screen is carefully aligned on the printing board to make sure the design is correctly positioned on the garment. 

Mesh count — referring to the number of threads per inch in the screen — plays a significant role in determining the level of detail that can be achieved. A higher mesh count allows for finer details, while a lower count is ideal for bold, simple designs.

Printing the Design

With the screen in place, ink is applied at the top of the screen and spread evenly using a squeegee. 

As the squeegee is pulled across the screen, ink passes through the open areas, transferring the design onto the fabric. This step can be repeated with different screens and inks to create multi-colored designs, with each color requiring a separate screen. After printing, the garment is usually passed through a dryer to cure the ink, ensuring it adheres well to the fabric and remains vibrant over time.

This methodical approach to screen printing, involving careful preparation and execution, results in high-quality, durable designs that stand out on any garment.

What To Know About Types of Inks

When it comes to the ink used to create the design on your favorite tees, different inks can have slightly different results.

Plastisol Inks and Their Versatility

Plastisol ink is one of the most commonly used inks in screen printing, particularly for t-shirts and hoodies. Its popularity stems from its versatility and ease of use. 

Plastisol inks do not dry when exposed to air, which allows screen printers to work at their own pace without worrying about the ink setting prematurely. This type of ink sits on top of the fabric rather than soaking into it, creating vibrant, opaque prints that stand out against both light and dark garments. 

Additionally, plastisol inks can be mixed with various additives to achieve different textures and finishes, such as puff effects or glitter.

Water-Based Inks for a Softer Feel

Water-based inks are another popular choice in screen printing, particularly for those seeking a softer, more natural feel to their designs. 

Unlike plastisol, water-based inks absorb into the fabric, creating a smooth, breathable finish that feels like part of the garment. This makes them ideal for printing on lightweight fabrics or for designs where a subtle, vintage look is desired. 

Water-based inks are also more environmentally friendly, as they contain fewer harmful chemicals and can be cleaned up with water. However, they require more precise handling, as they dry quickly and can be more challenging to work with.

What Are Screen Printing Presses?

The screen printing press is at the heart of any screen printing operation, whether it’s a small DIY setup or a large commercial enterprise. These machines hold the screen in place and provide for consistent pressure applied during the printing process. 

Manual presses require the operator to push the squeegee across the screen, while automatic presses perform this action mechanically, allowing for faster production speeds and more consistent results. The choice between manual and automatic presses depends largely on the scale of production, with automatic presses being more suitable for large runs.

Supporting Equipment for High-Quality Results

In addition to the press, other essential pieces of screen printing equipment include exposure units, flash dryers, and printing boards. Exposure units are used to harden the emulsion on the screen during stencil creation, with bright light playing a crucial role in this process. Flash dryers quickly dry inks between layers when printing multi-colored designs, preventing smudging and ensuring sharp lines. 

Finally, printing boards, also known as pallets, provide a flat, stable surface on which the garment is placed during printing, helping to maintain the accuracy and quality of the design. Together, these tools enable screen printers to produce high-quality, durable prints efficiently.

A Superior Method

Screen printing is a powerful and versatile technique that continues to play a significant role in the creation of high-quality graphic tees and other apparel. 

From its rich history and intricate process to the variety of inks and specialized equipment used, screen printing offers endless possibilities for creating unique, durable designs. Whether you’re drawn to the boldness of plastisol inks or the softness of water-based alternatives, understanding this art form allows you to appreciate the craftsmanship behind every printed garment. 

As you explore screen-printed products, you’ll discover the perfect blend of style, quality, and creativity. Visit Steel City for go-to prints today.

Sources:

A Brief History of Screenprinting | WNY Book Arts Center

Andy Warhol | The Art Institute of Chicago

Screenprint | The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Plastisol vs. Water-Based: Which Ink Is Better? | Screen Printing Mag